Trekking in the Wakhan Corridor (Tajikistan & Afghanistan)

The Pamir mountains of the Wakhan corridor in Afghanistan are remote... Nestled between the Tajikistan Pamirs to the north, the Kunlun Mountains in China to the east and the Hindu Kush in Pakistan to the south, this is a pretty hard place to get to!

The closest commercial international airports are approximately 500km away as the crow flies and a lot more by road... Bad road! Dushanbe in Tajikistan is really the only workable starting point unless you have a helicopter... Kabul would require crossing a war zone, Kashgar is no good as the border with China is closed and Islamabad would require crossing the Karakoram and Hindu Kush mountain ranges.

So the 2015 Secret Compass expedition to the Wakhan started in Dushanbe very early in the morning on Monday 20th July. 12 team mates (Martyn, Martin, Julie, Mark, Ruth, Janet, Ginny and myself from England, Damian from Ireland, Markus from Oz and Stacy and Lisa from the US), expedition lead Becky and assistant lead Greg all piled into 4 Toyota Landcruisers with our Takjik drivers and headed off down the Pamir Highway. A few hours out from Dushanbe, we entered the GBAO autonomous region of Tajikistan and reached the Panj river (which becomes the famous Amu Darya further downstream also known as the Oxus in classical antiquity). We would be following, or within close proximity of the Panj and its upstream tributaries, the Wakhan and Pamir rivers, for the duration of the trip.

It was going to take at least 4 days of bum numbing driving before we got to the trailhead (2 days in Tajikistan and 2 days in Afghanistan) from where the plan was 12 days trekking and 5 travel days back. However, this is a part of the world where plans change!

The Panj river with Afghanistan on the other side

Tea time spread at our guesthouse in Kalaikhum on day one

The first challenge of the trip came on day 2, a couple of hours into the day's drive. Landslide! The road and bridge had been totally destroyed by a sea of mud rushing down the mountainside and there was no way through. This road is the only way to Ishkashim, where we were crossing into Afghanistan, so our options were limited; wait and hope or sack going to Afghanistan. The latter was not an option any in the group were willing to contemplate so we settled in to drink tea, read / snooze and check up on the rebuilding progress.

Road re-building. Dashtuk, Tajikistan

The bulldozers started clearing and resetting the road from 10.30am, shortly after we'd arrived. By the evening they'd reached the 'river'. The next morning concrete pipes turned up and were set on the river bed to create a culvert, rocks and soil pilled above them and compressed down. After a 30 hour delay to our journey, the road reopened and we were on our way shortly after lunch. The Chinese are often criticised for their recent brand of neo-colonialism, however in this instance we were quite thankful for their presence. It would have taken a lot longer without their intervention.

Following the Panj through Tajikistan

A long drive to Khorog, an unplanned but very pleasant (hot showers!) overnight stay at Yussef's (our head driver) lovely new guesthouse and by lunchtime the next day, 23rd July, we crossed into Afghanistan. Malang, our local 'fixer' (and somewhat a celebrity as the first Afghan to summit Noshaq (7492m), the highest mountain in the country), met us at the border and we made the short (but very entertaining in local taxis) trip into Ishkashim and to the guesthouse. Permits (mainly our individual foreigner registration cards) were the activity for the afternoon - a long, painful and convoluted process. Patience and good humour are necessary at all times!

Worth a few hours wait... Shame about the mug shot

The next morning, we headed off at 9.30am, having loaded up the 4x4s and got the police permits. We stopped for a short tea break at Malang's family house and then made our way onto Khundud (the administrative centre for the Wakhan) for a lunch stop and our final permit.

Tea in Malang's family home

The drive into the Wakhan Corridor, up the Panj river valley is beautiful; desolate and utterly stunning. The Tajik Pamirs rise to our left on the other bank of the Panj river and the Hindu Kush mountains to our right. As we drive through villages and small settlements people are often a little shy and wait for the first wave but always smiling and welcoming. In this remote region (which gets more remote the further one heads up the valley), the Central Asia Institute (CAI), supported by the Aga Khan foundation, are the key promoters for school building and providing education to the children of the Wakhan.

Heading into the Wakhan Corridor

As we approach the Afghan Pamirs, the Panj splits into the Wakhan and Pamir rivers. We leave Tajikistan, as the border turns to the north east following the Pamir river, and head into the Wakhan river valley, to the village of Wuzed (2900m) from where we'll start the trek. The guesthouse sits a little up on the north side of the valley, allowing wonderful views across to the Hindu Kush and up the Wakhan river valley towards the Little Pamir.

Despite the long drive from Ishkashim, we'd only managed to claw back 1/2 day and were still a day behind schedule. We had 2 nights in Wuzed as the first walking day is an acclimatisation day, which, despite the pressure on our schedule, we maintained. We headed up the opposite side of the valley from the way we would head off the next day, going up to 3250m. We had a good 4 hour walk with a tea break provided by the local Wakhi family on the hill. We were back in the valley for a late lunch, followed by a chilled afternoon washing, pitching tents, packing and reading.

Wakhi family posing for a photo

Fertile patch of the mountainside with wonderful views of the Afghan and Tajik Pamirs

We started the trek on July 26th. We headed off after organising the pack animals; our group now complimented by 8 donkeys, 12 carrying yaks and 4 riding yaks. An early river crossing using the yaks and then a stunning day climbing 1000m up into the Afghan Pamir range to Coch camp at just under 4000m. Nothing there but a couple of huts used by the locals for shelter on their trade runs. We set up camp and relaxed in the evening sun with views of the Hindu Kush.

Heading up into the Afghan Pamir range on day 1

The beautiful Hindu Kush range and Pakistan on the other side of the Wakhan river

The next day we woke up in the rain which would last all day. We start a little later at 8.30 as we were waiting to see if the weather cleared... It didn't! We climbed up to the Wuzed pass at 4460m and then descended the other side to Mulungden. No views today and we would only appreciate the glaciated peaks nearby the next morning. Tents were set up in the rain but luckily it stops at 5.30. The stone hut used by the guides and cooks was so small that we had dinner (rice and chips!) in 2 sittings. Mulungden sits at 4100m in a beautiful valley surrounded by glaciated peaks (not that we saw them on arrival).

The trekking paparazzi 

We headed off early at 7am on day 3, after breakfast and clearing camp. We were now settled into a slick morning routine; up at 5, breakfast at 6 and walking at 7, which allowed us to make good progress before the heat kicked in at about 11am. The rain had gone and the sky was clearing. Long day with several river crossings covering a lot of ground (18km approx). Sweeping views throughout the day! Coming across the pass the Tajik Pamirs come into view again as we have crossed the range as we head into the Big Pamir. We arrive in the nomadic settlement of Manjalaq (3900m) where we set up camp and relax in the afternoon sun overlooking the mountains. Nobody here this time so we have the place to ourselves.

Day 3 - After the rain comes the sun

The next day, we left Manjalaq at 7 for a long day hiking to Jelsarmet. Early on we entered and walked up the holy valley of Ali Su. A couple of challenging river crossings awaited in the upper reaches of the valley. Once through and after a long climb back up to a pass at 4450m, we rejoined the plateau of the Big Pamir. We arrived in Jelsarmet in good time at 4ish but our yaks were nowhere to be seen... As back up, we negotiated the use of the guest yurt for the night which was constructed in front of us. Jelsarmet sits at 4200m in a side valley of the Big Pamir, overlooking the Pamir river valley with the Tajik Pamirs opposite.

Sharing a laugh at photos in Jelsarmet

Our hosts for the night in Jelsarmet

Putting up the guest yurt in Jelsarmet

Day 5 was a long day hiking up the Big Pamir, up, down and across river valleys and moraines from Jelsarmet to Ergonok. The morning was rather tiresome walking across the arid plateau in the sun but got better in the afternoon. Sweeping views across to Tajikistan all along.

Horses replace yaks as we enter Kyrgyz land in the Big Pamir

River crossing as we head from Jelsarmet to Ergonok

We arrive in the beautiful valley of Ergonok (4200m) at 5.30pm as the sun is setting. Another night, another yurt and space to set up tents by the river.

Beautiful Ergonok valley

Day 6 (31st July) was a rest day at Ergonok. Washing, walking up and down the valley, taking photos, 'chatting' with the local Kyrgyz and relaxing. In the afternoon we were treated to a traditional Kyrgyz game of buzkashi. 12 horses, nearly 2 hours, one trampling, 2 horses floored and lots of scoring!

One of Ergonoks youngest residents

The 'sacrificed' goat for our game of buzkashi

Picking up the goat

Riders tussling for the goat

It wasn't all good news though, as we confirmed at lunchtime today that the 'road' from Sarhad to Wuzed is still closed due to 4 landslides and we therefore can't head over the pass back to the little Pamir. We will have to take the escape route out of the Big Pamir and follow the Pamir valley. Big disappointment as that was the aim of the expedition and now we will essentially just be heading back down the valley.

We left Ergonok on day 7 with the team morale fairly low. We retraced our steps to Jelsamet which included the 2 river crossings, one which we had crossed on foot a few days back needed to be crossed with the horses this time as it had risen with the rain. A long day walking back across moraines and the high plateau. Yurt night + some camping in the village we previously stopped at for tea. Altitude approx 4100m.

On day 8 we continued down to the Pamir river valley. We leave the Big Pamir behind as we cross the final part of the plateau and start following the river. The morning is rather tedious walking across moraines. A strong westerly wind picks up as we reach the river valley. Lunch by a winter grain store by the river waving to 4x4 driving the Pamir highway on the Tajik side. The afternoon is more interesting with walking on challenging terrain. Lots of sand, ridges and landslides to handle. One small river crossing and then a bridge to take us across the Ali Su (river coming down the holy valley) and we come to a grassy area on the banks of the river. Perfect camping spot with a hut for cooking at about 3600m. Dinner of pasta and potatoes, some chat on what lies ahead and what we can do in Dushanbe when we get there and then time to turn in. Some tired legs as we covered 23-24km today.

Day 9 and we continue down to the Pamir river valley. The valley becomes more constrained as we head to the gorge.

Our final day of trekking was a relatively easy walk to reach Goz Khun, where the Pamir and Wakhan river valleys meet and form the Panj river.. A couple of river crossings and some ups and downs to come back to 2900m. Arrive lunch time and relax in the afternoon, repack, wash (luxury bucket wash of course!) etc...

Beautiful sunrise over a glaciated peak in the Tajik Pamirs

We hit the road early in the morning on the 5th August on our way out from this wonderfully remote area. The (rather hopeful) aim was to drive from Goz Khun to Ishkashim, cross back into Tajikistan and onto Khorog in the day. Within a couple of hours however this had been cut back to simply reaching Ishkashim due to the bulging water levels of the Wakhan river. In the end it took 10 hours to cover 150km.

Assessing the depth of a flooded section

The days summary was pretty impressive: 3 river crossings at sections where the road was flooded (with the cars taking on water at the deepest one), 1 broken Corolla (swapped for a van), 2 flats tyres, 1 rear axle broken and a punctured exhaust on a Landcruiser (swapped for a Corolla) and 2 vans stuck in the mud requiring towing out!

The motorcade making its way back to Ishkashim

Playful children in Khundud

From Ishkashim, the rest of the trip back would be relatively easygoing. A fun couple of hours to cross the border back into Tajikistan followed by a couple of hours drive to Khorog where we could spend an afternoon and evening celebrating.

Yours truly at the Ishkashim border

It was then a couple of further days driving to reach Dushanbe (no landslides or other mishaps this time), taking the high route via the Sagirdast pass (3252m). After a day of relaxing, sightseeing and souvenir shopping, we made our way to the airport in the very early morning of 10th August for our flights home!

Tashakor Afghanistan! Hope to see you again sometime!

P.S. National Geographic published a great article on the Wakhan in 2013 which you can read here: http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2013/02/wakhan-corridor/finkel-text

P.P.S Update 29/12/2015 - The Wakhan features as the starting point of Levison Wood's 'Walking the Himalayas'. The first episode aired on Channel 4 on 27 December 2015. Levison (who co-founded Secret Compass) walked the first stage with Malang a couple of months before our expedition to the region.